This is everything I have. If anyone has additional diagrams send them to me and I will add them to the list.

92-94 Metro 3 cylinder ECU pinouts

Swift wiring diagrams 89-01

These are pdf files each covers the year listed. They are for the swift but they are very similar if not identical for most systems.

• 1989 Suzuki Swift
• 1990 Suzuki Swift
• 1991 Suzuki Swift
• 1992 Suzuki Swift
• 1993 Suzuki Swift
• 1994 Suzuki Swift
• 1995 Suzuki Swift
• 1996 Suzuki Swift
• 1997 Suzuki Swift
• 1998-2001 Suzuki Swift

If I find anything else I will add it but for now this is all I know about the Metro wiring diagrams

I will try to keep the list in order of what I think the easiest/biggest gains first and harder smaller gains last. This list is not addressing the driving style changes. I am keeping it strictly about car modifications.

1. Grille block and front air dam – very easy to add, just use stiff plastic and cover all of the grille opening except for a small 3×5 or so area in front of the radiator. Also don’t forget to seal the gap between the bumper and hood. Cost less than 10 bucks probably depending on materials.
2. Weight reduction – get everything not required out of the car. Carry a can of fix a flat and toss the spare and jack. Rip out the back seat and seatbelts. Even the passenger seat and belt if you don’t need it. After getting all that stuff out take the carpet up and scrape off the asphalt like soundproofing on the floor, there is at least 25lbs of it in the car. All this stuff adds weight that you can use for faster acceleration or the same acceleration with less engine load. Also the car will go up a hill easier without downshifting.
3. Advance the ignition timing a few degrees over factory. Just make sure to listen for knock and not blast the radio so you don’t damage the engine over time. 2-3 degrees is a pretty safe amount to advance it.
4. Use the 93-94 flat front bumper instead of the earlier 90s bumper with a rounded bottom. These are easy to find in a junkyard cheap. The left one in the picture is best.
5. Take the passenger mirror off and mount one inside the car. Check local laws first before doing this.
6. Acetone 3oz per fill up – This will show an improvement in mileage if your car has a weak fuel system. It cleans it out pretty well so after a few tanks just put it in once every dozen or so tanks just to keep the system clean. It is much cheaper than those little bottles of injector cleaner.
7. Water injection – Use a fish tank gang valve to get water into a ported vacuum source on the engine. It works and you can pick up 3-5mpg with it but it is a pain to keep regulated and is probably the most annoying thing to keep right but it is cheap and easy to set up. There is lots of information about it online just search for ‘water injection fish tank gang valve’ or something to find information. I have used this in the past but it is impossible to keep tuned and running properly the way I did it and I gave up on the idea before trying to make it work better.
8. XFi camshaft – under 100 bucks but can give you an easy 8mpg and make the car run a lot better on the bottom end. This mod works well with changing the gear ratios
9. Find a 3.52 final drive transmission – The 3.52 is the tallest gear available. I have an article on here detailing the transmission ratios.
10. Change to a larger diameter tire – this also helps lower highway rpms and if you are careful with your tire and wheel selection and stay as narrow as possible on the tire can gain a few mpg. Just make sure you change speedometer gears to keep it accurate. Also make sure to pick a good low rolling resistance tire.
11. Advance the camshaft timing to suit your driving style – this one can take some time and testing to get right. Drill a new indexing hole in a different location to change the cam timing. Typically 3-5 degrees advance for an XFi cam and 5-10 for a standard cam. If you don’t want to do it yourself they are available on teamswift.net pretty cheap.
12. Wire up a toggle switch to disable the alternator. This has shown as much as 10% increase in mileage. I have not tried it yet but when I do I will post a full writeup on it. Taking the alternator out totally is also possible but then it can limit your range in case you have to drive longer than normal.
13. Rear wheel skirts – use something like aluminum flashing with something to stiffen it and cover the back wheels. It is a small increase in mileage but not that difficult if you don’t mind drilling a few holes in the body and pretty cheap really.
14. Rear wing off a swift. The small wing that extends the top of the hatch is a pretty easy thing to install the holes are already marked for it inside the hatch. Just drill them out and install it. There is a tiny aerodynamic improvement from it but every little bit counts right?
15. Smooth belly pan – using coroplast or some other material cover the entire underside of the car making it smooth. It is cheap to do but takes hours to install and makes working on the car a pain. But it can pick up a few mpg. Also trim the front air dam to be pretty short after doing this.
16. Remove radio antenna and fill the hole in smoothly. Probably nothing that can be measured but every little bit counts. The antenna can be put inside the car and work almost as good as stock.
17. Lexan covers glued to cover the headlight buckets. A 2 liter clear bottle works well for the material to glue on. Again probably not measurable but every little bit…
18. Smooth wheel covers. These look cool and can be something as simple as a pizza pan bolted to the rim so they should be cheap to do. The salt flat racers always run these for some reason so they have to help some.
19. MSD or similar ignition and bigger coil. Easier starts and smoother idle. The car can pull better at lower rpms with this so if you adjust your shifting down 100rpms or so lower than normal it can show gains.

All of the stuff listed here should help improve mileage. But before doing any mods it is best to get a baseline mileage by either driving a few tanks of gas before/after or using a mpg computer like the new open source mpg computer MPGuino. If anyone has any other ideas or can see anything I forgot let me know and I will add them to the list.

In order to do the repair you need to be a good welder or have access to one. A good source for very good quality work in the United States is to take the car to a local vocational school. They will usually do the work for the cost of materials and a small ~$25 donation to the school. Just make sure to talk to the welding shop teacher and not the automotive shop. To get the car ready there is a lot that needs to be removed. The stuff I list here is what I think needs removed, depending on the repair you might need more or less removed.

• Take the wheels off
• Take the Tie rods out, or the entire steering rack, whatever you think is easier. This might be able to remain depending on the repair.
• Remove the battery and battery tray.
• Remove the air filter hose and the air filter.
• Take the front pulley off the engine and the alternator.
• The axle shafts probably will need removed but depending on the repair they might be able to stay.
• Pull back the carpet away from the front. Just lay it on the seats to keep it from catching on fire from the welding being done on the opposite side of the floor pan.

This should give you access to the frame areas. If you only need one side repaired you could do just one part but while the car is being repaired doing both sides would be wise.

If it is still solid and not already rusted out enough to let the control arm move fabricate a temporary brace to hold the arm in position. Just tack weld it up to the frame or anywhere handy. I have included the pages in the factory service manual showing measurements so it can be double checked to make sure the car stays square. Click on the pictures to enlarge them.

Take the bolts out of the bottom of the suspension mount so the forward part of the A-arm is free. Now cut off the lip around the mount area. This lip is where the factory joined the different sections together. It is probably not actually doing much more than holding rust now.

The frame rails are made of thin metal as well as the firewall. Welding to these will not be as strong so avoid it if possible. If possible just weld about halfway up the mount. The metal should still be in good shape in that area and have all the strength needed to support the mount.

I would start by cutting a strip a foot or so long by about 2 inches wide and go across the bottom 2 bolt holes wrapping it up to the front. Then take a strip and go across from the wheel area down under the mount catching the front bolt mount and up the other side halfway again. Do the same thing for the rear bolt by starting on the wheel side but the inner part will be tighter and have to be a bit more careful fitting it.

Once the bolt holes have plenty of metal supporting them they can be drilled back out or if the bolts broke off they can be left covered and the mount just welded onto them. I would then add another layer of metal covering all of lower part of the suspension. If the bracket that holds the front mount sits a bit lower than factory it is not going to really change anything about how the car rides or handles so don’t worry about putting two or three layers of metal over the factory stuff. Also once the main parts are welded up it is probably a good idea to keep adding metal and building up anything that looks weak. It is better to put more on it than not enough.

I would probably use 14ga sheet metal to repair the car. If you want it to last longer than the rest of the car then you can use something like 10ga but it will be a lot harder to weld up to the factory parts. If you don’t think your welding skills are up to it find a shop you trust and ask them about having the work done. On my pictures you can ignore the primer gray tubing shown, I was in the process of building my tube chassis car and used those pictures to explain the process. But with those pictures and looking at your car it should be easy to figure out what needs done to repair the car. Just remember you are not building a race car so trying to save weight on this repair will end up with a weaker repair than you otherwise would so use good metal and don’t be afraid to add more than you think you need to do the job.

Also if you think you are not up to the repair you should find someone who thinks they can repair it properly. Every car will have rust in slightly different areas so the repairs might be different than I have suggested here. If you kill your car don’t blame me, I am just offering my opinion on what is needed to repair them.

There are several different speedometer gears for the various tires that have came on the Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, and 95+ European Subaru Justy. The drive gear inside the transmission is the same number of teeth on all the cars so it does not need to be changed. It is a plastic 18 tooth gear. The only difference is the driven plastic gear. It is the one attached to the speedometer cable and can be removed by taking the single bolt out and gently twisting and pulling it out of the transmission. If it is stuck use penetrating oil to free it up.

The ratios available are:

• 16 tooth brown gear. It came stock on the Swift GT with 14 inch wheels.
• 17 tooth white gear. It came stock on all the cars with 13 inch wheels.
• 18 tooth yellow or beige gear. This was the one to fit the 12 inch wheels.

The cars listed that they came on were wrong. I have figured it out based on the tire size on the car.

• Swift GA and Metro Convertible had 165/65R13 tires, the same diameter as the 145/12 tires so had the 18 tooth gear
• Swift GT had 165/65R14 tires, the same diameter as the 155/13 tires so had the 17 tooth gear.
• putting 185/70R14 tires on will require a 16 tooth gear but no cars came stock with it that I know of so it has to be ordered from a dealer.

The part numbers I have so far for the gears are:

• 26131-60B00 Manual Trans 18 tooth
• 26131-64B00 Manual Trans 17 tooth
• 26131-62B00 Automatic 18 tooth
• 26131-62B40 Automatic 17 tooth

I would double check these numbers and make sure to take your gear in and compare them since I have no way to verify these part numbers are accurate.

The final drive ratio does not affect the speedometer gear so if you are changing transmissions no matter what final drive ratio you use it does not change the speedometer readings. Changing tire size is the only reason to change the speedometer gear. The gears are available from a Suzuki dealership if for some reason you can’t find one in a junkyard locally.

The transmissions for all the cars are basically the same. The 4wd Swift has some incompatible parts but a majority of the parts are interchangeable. If you want a detailed listing of the first through fifth gear ratios there is a very detailed and updated list on teamswift.net. For this site though we are more interested in fuel economy so the only thing we really care about is the final drive ratio. The numerically lower ratio is almost always better for getting better mileage. The only downside is it will make the car much slower accelerating and not able to climb hills as easy. If you are after the best mileage possible neither of these are a concern though.

The available transmission ratios and what they are out of:

• 3.52:1 1.3L SOHC Swift up to mid year ’95
• 3.79:1 98-01 4 cylinder Metro
• 3.85:1 XFi Metro
• 3.95:1 mid year ’95 up 1.3L SOHC Swift
• 4.10:1 Swift GT, GTi, 95 and earlier Metro
• 4.39:1 Metro Convertible, 96+ Metro

So the one to find is the MK2/3 Swift SOHC 1.3L transmission for the best ratio. If you have a 96 up or convertible there is a small gain going to the 89-94 4.10 trans that is very easy to find. I have heard inconsistent reports of what cars had 4.10 and 4.39 gears though so make sure to check the transmissions out before swapping them. To check the ratio open up the gearbox filler plug and count the teeth on the crown wheel, I use a soapstone like is used for welding and when turning the input shaft mark every 10th tooth to keep from losing track. Here is a table of all the gear ratios and how many teeth to count out on the crown wheel.

Once you have found a car that started out life with the right components you still need to check it out to make sure it is still stock. If the car is a one owner car they can tell you if the car is stock or what parts have been swapped over the years. If the owner has no idea then you are going to have to do some work to figure it out. If the car now has an automatic transmission then you know for sure it is not stock, there was no automatic transmission option for the XFi.

All XFi’s have a 5 speed with 3.79:1 differential ratio. So to test this the easiest thing to do is put the car in 4th gear with the timing mark of the engine on top dead center. Put a mark on the tire on the bottom so you know how far it has moved. Now turn the engine over by pulling on the car slowly watching the timing marks. Turn the engine 4 full revolutions. Now look where the tire is and it should have made slightly less than one revolution. 4th gear in the car has a 0.914 ratio so adding that to the 3.79 differential ratio means the engine should turn 4.1 times for each revolution of the wheel.

Now for the engine the only real way to tell is to pull the valve cover off and measure the cam. Nobody is going to let you do that to their car so really you are kind of out of luck with an easy to spot way to identify an XFi engine. The best you are going to be able to do is to check the engine carefully for signs it has been rebuilt or swapped out. Look for bolts that don’t look like all the rest of the fasteners in the engine. Stuff like missing bolts or wrong bolts in the bellhousing, exhaust mainfold, oil pan, and the other engine covers can give you a clue to what work has been done to the engine and if it looks like someone has swapped it out. Remember these cars are getting old so just because some of the covers have new gaskets doesn’t mean the engine has been swapped out. It could just be normal wear and tear.

Even if the engine has been swapped as long as it still has the XFi camshaft then really it doesn’t matter. The XFi engine had 2 ring pistons instead of the normal 3 rings. That and the camshaft are the only differences. The cam is the most important part though, the rings don’t improve the mileage as much as the cam, and you can always leave the second compression ring off a normal 3 cyl engine to copy the XFi pistons. If the engine has a normal metro camshaft and the XFi cam is gone there is really no way to replace it other than watch ebay and teamswift to see if one shows up for sale. They usually aren’t cheap though so try and find the right cam with the car if possible.